Fine dining is often an ironic experience, we go to celebrity chefs’ restaurants to try their clever dishes, but never cooked by themselves. They are always busy with TV shows than actually cooking at their restaurants. There are exceptions, but very rare. Out of all my fine dining posts, only Nuno Mendes at Viajante was visibly at the pass monitoring every dish. Another exception is new restaurants still striving to establish their names, like Alyn Williams, the former headchef at Marcus Wareing. I have no doubt that it will be awarded two Michelin stars very soon, Alyn is a very creative chef who cares for details and have produced some very memorable dishes. If you want to try his food, go now.  

Alyn Williams opened two months ago at the Westbury hotel, which recently became a five star hotel. Funny how Andy Lynes mentioned the sparkling carpet at Alyn Williams, I didn’t notice till the end of meal. It’s a boutique space with only 11 tables, each arranged with a decent space. Those at the corner were shaped into a semi-concealed booth for a more private dining feel. If you need private dining, two rooms are also available. The small dining room has a great concept where you choose the wines first and the chef will select a suitable menu for these wines.

A bar as you walk into the restaurant

Tables on the side shaped like a booth

The small private dining room

Lunch service was relaxed, not many people but a few tables of business men, perhaps attracted by the quiet and peaceful ambiance. In terms of menus, it was vegetarian friendly, both the a la carte and the tasting menus had a dedicated page for vegetarians. A lunch menu was also available at excellent value, £24 for three courses, difficult to beat at the expensive Bond street area. I pieced together three courses from the a la carte and my friend ordered the set lunch menu. 

Bread and Fourme d’Ambert gougeres

The potato bread was particularly memorable with large chunks of mashy potatoes in the moist and bouncy dough. 

Langoustine, fennel custard skin, cider apple, chestnut, smoked eel

A dish of various subtle flavours, nothing strong to overpower or to linger around. The langoustine was only lightly dressed and still tender. On the side, a ravioli looking shell concealed a spoonful of diced eel and vegetables. It wasn’t a spectacular dish, but nothing to fault.

Cotswold white chicken, girolles, smoked egg, charred leek

The duck egg was the most perfectly cooked egg I’ve come across. You can even eat it with a folk without it immediately sinking through the gaps but still runny enough to ooze the plate. A thin layer of egg white was at the bottom of the yolk with a distinctive smoky flavour. The chicken was cooked through but still very tender, only lightly seasoned making this a dish with clean yet complex flavours, one that required great skills to make.  

Pre-dessert: cream catalan, pear granita and pine sugar

The textures of crushed watery ice with creme catalan was a interesting mix. Icy enough for the refreshing chill but sweet enough as a pre-dessert. 

Baked apple, blackberry and apple mivvi, cream tea

I’ve never seen baked apple presented like this, wafer thin layers of apple soaked with cinnamon flavours neatly rolled into a precious pattern, like the rings of a tree. Half of a tiny scone was carefully placed on the side covering the clotted cream and jam underneath. I liked the playful touch of the mivvi, it reminded me of the two coloured ice lollies we used to eat during childhood.

My friend had the following dishes from the set lunch menu

Sorry I can’t comment on their flavours because I didn’t try any of them, but a few pictures for you to judge for yourself.

Barbeque salmon, kohlrabi, apple, langoustine, bisque

Grilthead bream, baked potato, Pissaladiere

Cows curd cheesecake, passion fruit, flapjack

She also had a cheesecake for dessert but I was too consumed by my own that I forgot to take a picture. She’s not a dessert fan but still managed to finish the cheesecake at speed with waves of wow, so I guess it must’ve been an excellent cheesecake.

Cheeseboard

We didn’t have any room for a cheese platter but it looked like a good selection from this cheese trolly. 

Chocolate

These chocolates came with our tea and coffee, also a box to take home. I’m normally good at remembering to take pictures, the only time I forgot was at Zuma where I had to put the half eaten mushroom skewers back and photo the remains. Interestingly I forgot to photo both this chocolate (I realised half way through, hence only two chocolates left) and the cheesecake. Maybe the food was too good and I kept wanting to finish it all.. 

Verdict

Food (creative and delicious) - The food reminded me a lot of Marcus Wareing, even the plating. Each dish was creatively done, I particularly loved the slow cooked duck egg and the baked apple, both demonstrated excellent skills. Alyn is a great chef with many creative ideas and is consistently cooking at two Michelin star quality.

Service (friendly) - I loved the service here, everything came at the perfect time, no hint of a new restaurant. Alyn Williams came to see us at the end of the meal and toured us through the kitchen.

Cost (good value) - The bill came to £100 with a £45 three course a la carte and a £24 three course set lunch. Excellent value for fine dining restaurants in central London, much cheaper than the Square next door. We didn’t have any drinks, but my friendly who was slightly hangover did drink three large bottles of water.